Victoria Cates of Potion 23 in front of her wall of fabrics.

Victoria Cates was a goth teen. She sported spooky victorian-era clothing, a porcelain doll collection, and, of course, a lot of black. As she got older, she evolved that style and a new love of color and florals into her St. Louis-based clothing line called Potion 23.

Potion 23 is true to its name. It’s a concoction of sorts. She mixes witchy vibes with cottage-core-couture, inspired by 30s and 40s silhouettes that will make you swoon. It’s perfect for those with a little bit of edge and plenty of color in their closet.

“I experimented with a lot of looks, which I think kind of condenses into my aesthetic now,” she said. “I like to think of it as dollhouse goth.”

The business came to be in 2019. Victoria had been hand-embroidering collars and antique garments, and she started to play around with the sewing machine her Dad taught her how to use when she was 11. This launched into the full clothing line that is Potion 23.

A studio still life. Potion 23 shares a studio with vintage curators Parsimonia, formerly on South Grand.

Since she’s been sewing since she was a girl, fashion design has always been a passion. She attended the Beverly Hills Design Institute in Los Angeles for college where she dipped her toes into the world of runways, couture, and the hustle and bustle of LA fashion. That part of the industry is not for her, she says, but she uses the couture aesthetic for inspiration.

Victoria is a New York native and European admirer. She gets inspiration from anything and everything, specifically from architecture and old prints, patterns, and paintings. She just took a trip to Germany for her honeymoon, for instance, and was amazed by the medieval houses with the unique shapes and colors that we just don’t use in America or in modern times.

Tori’s work space in her South Grand studio.

When dreaming up new garments, she gathers these European architectural elements with some art elements, like her favorite Dutch master paintings. This, in addition to the classy looks of old golden Hollywood film stars like Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, makes up the idea behind Potion 23.

“My favorite eras are the 30s and 40s and I try to make them my own by adding little signatures that are more me, and unique to my aesthetic.”

Victoria’s favorite creation is her Rapture blouse, which she says are meditative to make. Other favorites are the witchy sun-hats she just launched, and with Halloween around the corner, she has plans in the works for new fall collections.

Victoria’s biggest dream for Potion 23 is that it’s not just a fashion line, but also a home decor and lifestyle brand. When she’s not making clothes, she makes cheeky and spooky pillows with unique embroidery and animals on them, and in the future, she wants to make cat clothes inspired by her own kitty named Praline Balloon, and most of all, a perfume that is a literal potion designed for Potion 23.

Victoria Cates with a hand made Potion 23 pillow

Victoria currently shares a studio space with her previous place of work, vintage store Parsimonia at 3145A S. Grand Blvd. Both Potion 23 and Parsimonia are shoppable by appointment only. You can reach out to Victoria via Potion’s Instagram DMs to shop, or to inquire about a custom order when she’s doing customs. You can also see some of here work on our website, available HERE!